April 26, 2010 -- Granada & the Alhambra

Today we started our two day visit to Granada. After all the hype about not driving our car, not being able to park, etc., it was a cinch. Hotel parking was available, but had it not been, public parking was just a block away. Our hotel, the Best Western Dauro 11, could not have been better located -- on a lovely pedestrian street within a few blocks of the Cathedral.

We settled into our hotel and began our visit to Granada with cerveza (beer) -- so much cheaper than coffee -- and food, glorious tapas.

After satisfy- ing our hunger, we decided to begin with the main attrac- tion, the Alhambra, and it was magnificent. Granada was the last Moorish stronghold to fall to the Catholic Monarchs and is by far the most authentic Moorish Palace in Spain.

These folks knew how to get close to Heaven inside their fortifi- cations -- wonderful gardens, pools of water, beautifully designed and decorated spaces whether they were courtyards, ambassadorial halls, private rooms or miradors. Then, of course Charles V, the conqueror, plunked his huge palace adjoining it -- quite a jarring juxtaposition.

Charles' creation is cold and magisterial with a massive courtyard surroundeded by tall Roman columns. It has none of the detailed mosaics or filigree work, the labyrinth of adjoining rooms and courtyards, the detailed carvings on ceilings or, for that matter, the intimacy, tranquillity and comfort exhibited by the Nazarid Palace.

The Alcazaba, or fortress, seems impregnable, much like the forts in Sevilla, Malaga and Cordoba. Interestingly, our little town, Frigiliana, due to its mountainous location and fortifications, was the last small Andalusian towns to submit to the Catholic Monarchs after the fall of Granada and its inhabitants were later very involved in the rebellions against their authority.

We returned to our hotel, exhausted from all the walking and climbing, and rested for an hour before further exploring this wonderful city. Although it was late, the streets were lively. We enjoyed some Cava (much like champagne) at an outdoor patio, listened to the street music and watched the Spaniards strut their stuff. It was a wonderful evening and it seemed we were the first to leave as we retired to our hotel around midnight.

In the hotel lobby we met four ladies from Sarasota, Florida, who were on a Granadian tour, and we chatted with them for an hour or so. They loved our "delightful accents" and we exchanged travelling adventures and locations and marvelled at the highlights of Granada.