April 28 - 29, 2010 -- Reflections from Frigiliana

We are nearing the end of our time in Frigiliana and so we spent some time on Wednesday exploring and enjoying this little village and neighbouring Nerja.

Frigiliana is an amazing little village -- so clean and bright, homog- eneous in its architecture, and very livable. Every streetscape reveals some wonderful perspective -- a long winding, cobblestone street, a picturesque courtyard shared by two or three homes, a brilliant white church, a restaurant with balcony or streetside tables, or a plaza with shaded tables and interesting adjoining buildings. The village boasts forty-one restaurants and bars, many of which do not open until nine o'clock p.m. but, despite that, it is a quiet and traditional village.

Today, Thursday, we travelled the short distance (5 minutes) to Nerja, having some places to visit and people to see. Carol got her hair cut by our host's hairdresser and was very happy with the result. Duane visited the car rental dealer to arrange for delivery at the airport tommorrow. We had an early dinner on a balcony overlooking a busy beach.

We see graffiti in our travels which is an expres- sion of people who are not always heard in public discourse. One example expressed a fairly common sentiment here (and in Italy when we were there a few years ago) that the adoption of the Euro condemned the Mediterranean countries to control by Germany in terms of exchange rates, monetary policy, and ultimately economic progress. The thought is that what Germany did not achieve by military means it is gaining by economic control. The current Greek fiscal crisis is seen as a symptom of the inappropriateness of countries like Spain (and other "Club Med" countries) adopting the Euro; they will likely revert to their own currencies -- pesos, lires, and drachmas. This time next year might be a very economical time to visit Greece or Italy.

Driving and parking in Spanish cities is a chal- lenge. Many streets are only ten feet wide and allow one way traffic and no parking. If a street is wide enough, parking is allowed on one side, leaving just enough room for a lane of traffic. On two way streets, cars park from either direction and double parking is very common. Just stop in front of a shop or drive up on the sidewalk, put the flashers on (or not), and go about your business. However, Spanish drivers are careful, courteous and patient. Most of the difficulty for a foreign driver comes from not being aware of one-way streets.

It is sad to leave as we could have profitably spent more time right here in Frigiliana and Nerja. However, tomorrow we are off to Malaga and from there we fly to Madrid.

April 27, 2010 -- Granada and Las Alpujarras

We had the morning to spend in Granada so we had coffee, wander- ed around a bit and then visited the Cathedral, a massive Gothic/Renaissance/Baroque structure which apparently changed styles as it was being constructed over the decades. The pillars are massive, not elegant. The church is entered via a low entrance and it has an unimpressive exterior partially because it is surrounded by other buildings, separated only by very narrow streets, and it is without a plaza. Granada never really regained its glory, partly because shortly after the Catholic Monarchs took control Granada was bypassed as a seat of power and influence. Phillip II didn't complete his father's palace but moved to Madrid and built his own, El Escorial.

We hopped a local mini-bus to the Albaycin, the old Moorish quarter across the Dauro River from the Alhambra, apparently with good views of the whole Alhambra complex. Our ride was a bit of a joke as it was almost entirely along narrow cobblestone streets with twelve foot stone walls appearing about a foot from both side windows of the mini-bus. Occasionally we had a peak at a view or some landmark. We were exceptionally happy that we hadn't decided to drive the route ourselves.

Back to our hotel we had lunch and were on our way, gaining the highway with great facility. Having some time to spend we took a different route home, through Las Alpujarras, a valley wedged between the Sierra Nevada and the Alpujarrra Mountains. This is a very high elevation region with little villages clinging to precipitous slopes at the base of the Sierra Nevadas. These white villages each have a special product for which they are known, be it mountain water, cured hams, pottery or hand-woven rugs. We had a beer and tapas at Caliperia, where we purchased a lovely rug and a fruit bowl.

We continued home, passing through Orgiva, a town with a lovely Baroque church with a front entrance patio filled with orange trees in full fruit. As one passes through this countryside one's sense are confronted with the most intense aromas from fruit trees and flowers. One thing that we have yet to figure out -- how can orange trees be in fruit and in bloom at the same time?

Back to Nerja, where we shopped for groceries and supplies to replace those we have used. Carol was not happy with one of the seafood choices Duane suggested for dinner.

April 26, 2010 -- Granada & the Alhambra

Today we started our two day visit to Granada. After all the hype about not driving our car, not being able to park, etc., it was a cinch. Hotel parking was available, but had it not been, public parking was just a block away. Our hotel, the Best Western Dauro 11, could not have been better located -- on a lovely pedestrian street within a few blocks of the Cathedral.

We settled into our hotel and began our visit to Granada with cerveza (beer) -- so much cheaper than coffee -- and food, glorious tapas.

After satisfy- ing our hunger, we decided to begin with the main attrac- tion, the Alhambra, and it was magnificent. Granada was the last Moorish stronghold to fall to the Catholic Monarchs and is by far the most authentic Moorish Palace in Spain.

These folks knew how to get close to Heaven inside their fortifi- cations -- wonderful gardens, pools of water, beautifully designed and decorated spaces whether they were courtyards, ambassadorial halls, private rooms or miradors. Then, of course Charles V, the conqueror, plunked his huge palace adjoining it -- quite a jarring juxtaposition.

Charles' creation is cold and magisterial with a massive courtyard surroundeded by tall Roman columns. It has none of the detailed mosaics or filigree work, the labyrinth of adjoining rooms and courtyards, the detailed carvings on ceilings or, for that matter, the intimacy, tranquillity and comfort exhibited by the Nazarid Palace.

The Alcazaba, or fortress, seems impregnable, much like the forts in Sevilla, Malaga and Cordoba. Interestingly, our little town, Frigiliana, due to its mountainous location and fortifications, was the last small Andalusian towns to submit to the Catholic Monarchs after the fall of Granada and its inhabitants were later very involved in the rebellions against their authority.

We returned to our hotel, exhausted from all the walking and climbing, and rested for an hour before further exploring this wonderful city. Although it was late, the streets were lively. We enjoyed some Cava (much like champagne) at an outdoor patio, listened to the street music and watched the Spaniards strut their stuff. It was a wonderful evening and it seemed we were the first to leave as we retired to our hotel around midnight.

In the hotel lobby we met four ladies from Sarasota, Florida, who were on a Granadian tour, and we chatted with them for an hour or so. They loved our "delightful accents" and we exchanged travelling adventures and locations and marvelled at the highlights of Granada.

April 24 - 25, 2010 -- Belly Dancers, Nude Bathers & Internet Daters

Saturday was a relaxing day, spent mostly on the lovely terrace of our apartment. Carol was not feeling 100% and Duane felt a repeated need to visit the neighbourhood store, coming back empty-handed the first four times. We find it amusing trying to figure out the retail hours of opening here.

In the evening we took our evening stroll to the village and then attended a belly dance performance (which began at 9:30 p.m.) in the local school gym. It was a good show, featuring many different styles of belly dancing -- Oriental and Egyptian, but most based on turn of the twentieth century Parisian fashion. One of the surprising features was a male belly dancer who was quite a dandy and showman. He obviously had a large following because people applauded, stood, and cheered loudly.

Some of the dancers were in amazing physical shape -- the body one gets from pumping iron. Others were the more voluptuous type, and still others were out of shape and overweight. At the end of the program (it was already past midnight) the dancers came into the audience to get people up to dance -- we left before they got to us. Duane loved the entire show; for Carol there was a bit too much vibrating flesh! If you'd like to see some of these jiggling bodies check out http://www.bellydanceshirin.com . The video of the dance Percusion will give you an idea of what Duane dreamt about last night.

Today we drove into Nerja and followed a tour book's directions to Burriana Beach. It was a tough 20 minute hike along the beach as the path was blocked off in many areas where one had to crawl through holes, climb over walls and inch around gates. As well we went through a nude beach area which was a novel experience.

When we got to Burriana Beach we headed to Ayo's, a famous "all you can eat" paella beachside restaurant. The Spanish often go out for their Sunday midday meal as an extended family so it was nice to watch the family dynamics with four generations at the table.

After leaving the restaurant Carol started up a conversation with a British couple and we joined them for a glass of Sangria at a bar down the beach. Turns out that they just had met on the Internet and this was their first day together. She is an expat who lives on the Costa del Sol and he is a carpenter from Anglia in the UK. James is quite a wag. Carol was asking how long Gilli had been Internet dating and asked if she had to endure many toads before she met James. James immediately replied: "Ribbit." We got along famously and they are coming to our apartment for drinks on Wednesday and then we will go out for dinner with them in Frigiliana.

Follow- ing our visit with the Brits we toured the Nerja Caves, a fairly large cave system with pre-historic cave paintings (the paintings were closed to the public of course). The community uses one cavernous room for dance and music concerts. Lots of archaeology potential but no significant interpretation of the findings.

April 22-23, 2010 -- Frigiliana and Malaga

On Thursday we relaxed around Frigiliana, attending the market in the morning before having coffee in the plaza. We pretended we were Spanairds and had a couple of cups of cafe con leche as we watched the people at the market. We bought luscious local produce: avocadoes, peppers, plump moscatel raisins, figs, mangoes, salted almonds, tasty tomatoes, and fresh asparagus. Later we feasted on some of those treats.

Today, Friday, we visited Malaga, taking the bus from Nerja, which was a very wise decision -- no getting lost and no parking issues. Despite what travel guide Rick Steves says, Malaga is a lovely city with a long, beautiful beach, impressive harbour and gorgeous mid-city park. It claims to be the sixth largest Spanish city and second largest Andalusian city after Sevilla, but it is very compact and the downtown area is fairly small.

We did a city tour first, which is our usual practice, then visited the Moorish fortress and palace, the Alcazaba. It is a marvellous defensive structure dominating the city but providing a sense of calm and serenity that the royalty were able to achieve in their palaces, with running water and fountains, extensive gardens, trellised courtyards and cool, airy rooms. The juxtaposition of massive defensive structures enclosing this luxurious setting is quite jarring.

Right beside the Alcazaba is a recently discovered Roman amphitheatre, now being incorporated into Malaga life as a venue for performances. Such a great idea to use a 2000 year old theatre for the same purpose for which it was built.

We also visited the Picasso Museum (which, unfortunately, was partially closed), Picasso's home, a Salvador Dali exhibit, and an extensive retrospective of a Czech modernist painter, Frantisek Kupka. It was a full, but very interesting, day.

Back on the bus -- a treat for Duane, the usual chauffeur -- and off to Nerja and Frigiliana for another of Duane's gorgeous dinners.

April 21, 2010 -- Costa Tropical -- the Road to Almeria

Today we travelled east to Almeria on the Autovia de Mediter- raneneo, a highway designed to partially smooth out the twists and turns made necessary by geography.

On the trip from Nerja to Almeria along the Costa Tropical we saw some amazing road building; we crossed 15 viaductos (bridges) totalling 4628 meters in length and travelled through 12 tunels (tunnels) totalling 7434 meters. The longest tunnel was 2170 meters. The Autovia is not fully completed so we also careened through quite a few miles of winding secondary road.

We passed through miles and miles of greenhouses, covering tens of thousands of acres of land. Many were idle, but we suspect that they are used season- ally to produce fruit, vege- tables and perhaps flowers for northern European tables during the winter months. These plastic-covered greenhouses totally dominate the landscape and are not at all attractive.

Almeria is a seaside city (one can ferry from here to Morroc- co) dominated by the Moorish Alacazaba (fortress). It is very impressive and extensive -- the biggest Moorish fortress in Europe. In this city even the cathedral looks like a fort, a result of too many Berber pirate deprecations.

Almeria is off the beaten tourist track, so every- thing is in Spanish and they don't seem to feel the need to sign their streets. We spent a (semi) pleasant half hour trying to leave the city. One cannot really get lost because the city is built on a slope which ends up in the Mediterranean, so one can get one's bearings quite easily. However, as we didn't want to go to the Mediterranean, we found it a little challenging.

On the way home we decided to eat out and stopped a a nice little town, Calahonda. It was 7:15 pm and the restaurants and bars were closed and/or were not prepared to serve dinner or tapas as it was too early. At one place we were told that the cook would not return for an hour. Others were closed until 8:30. So we returned to Frigiliana and dined on delicious leftovers from last night.

April 20, 2010 -- Goats, Rocks & Flamingoes

We did a local trip today in the country back of Malaga.

We travelled up a very winding road, initially through an intensively planted area and to a more pastoral area as we gained elevation. We seldom see people working in their fields or orchards so we were intrigued by the number of cars parked on the roadside. Finally we saw a man returning to his car with a large bundle of asparagus that he had foraged along the roadside. That reminded Duane of his childhood in Oyama where asparagus grew abundantly along the road.

After about one half hour of cranking the wheel back and forth we arrived at Almogia and we descended into the little village until the road became too narrow even for Duane. A policeman on a motorcycle stopped us and asked us if he could help (at least we think that is what he said) and after Duane explained that his Spanish was not too advanced (as if he couldn't tell) he replied in tolerable English, asking where we were headed. He then suggested (with much arm waving and finger pointing) that he escort us out of town to the road to Antequera, which he kindly did. Thankfully, this first contact with the police was very positive.

Back on the road we observed a goat herder bringing quite a large herd to a pasture across the road that we were on so we waited and watched. The last goat across the road was a crippled, old nanny with a milk bag nearly dragging on the ground -- she was in desperate need of a breast reduction.

We continued climbing into beautiful rolling fields set among the mountain tops and on up to a totally different world -- a world of incredible rock formations at El Torcal, a nature preserve. As well as the rocks one could also enjoy beautiful views over the mountains towards the blue-hazed coast.


Then on to Antequera where we ordered the menu of the day at a roadside establishment and were once again surprised at what we ordered.

Finally we reached our destina- tion, which was the Laguna (sometimes the Fuente) de Piedra where flamingoes come to feed. Apparently it is a saline lake that supports aquatic wildlife that the flamingoes enjoy.

On our return we shopped at the Super Mercado (supermarket) in Nerja, Spanish cookbooks in hand. After making some unknown purchases we returned home and set about making dinner. We weren't exactly sure what we had ordered at the seafood counter -- it was called Dorado in Spanish, Gilt in our dictionary, and it looked and tasted like fish. Duane also made a superb Spanish eggplant dish that he promises to replicate when he returns to Canada.