Tuesday, April 27, 2010

April 27, 2010 -- Granada and Las Alpujarras

We had the morning to spend in Granada so we had coffee, wander- ed around a bit and then visited the Cathedral, a massive Gothic/Renaissance/Baroque structure which apparently changed styles as it was being constructed over the decades. The pillars are massive, not elegant. The church is entered via a low entrance and it has an unimpressive exterior partially because it is surrounded by other buildings, separated only by very narrow streets, and it is without a plaza. Granada never really regained its glory, partly because shortly after the Catholic Monarchs took control Granada was bypassed as a seat of power and influence. Phillip II didn't complete his father's palace but moved to Madrid and built his own, El Escorial.

We hopped a local mini-bus to the Albaycin, the old Moorish quarter across the Dauro River from the Alhambra, apparently with good views of the whole Alhambra complex. Our ride was a bit of a joke as it was almost entirely along narrow cobblestone streets with twelve foot stone walls appearing about a foot from both side windows of the mini-bus. Occasionally we had a peak at a view or some landmark. We were exceptionally happy that we hadn't decided to drive the route ourselves.

Back to our hotel we had lunch and were on our way, gaining the highway with great facility. Having some time to spend we took a different route home, through Las Alpujarras, a valley wedged between the Sierra Nevada and the Alpujarrra Mountains. This is a very high elevation region with little villages clinging to precipitous slopes at the base of the Sierra Nevadas. These white villages each have a special product for which they are known, be it mountain water, cured hams, pottery or hand-woven rugs. We had a beer and tapas at Caliperia, where we purchased a lovely rug and a fruit bowl.

We continued home, passing through Orgiva, a town with a lovely Baroque church with a front entrance patio filled with orange trees in full fruit. As one passes through this countryside one's sense are confronted with the most intense aromas from fruit trees and flowers. One thing that we have yet to figure out -- how can orange trees be in fruit and in bloom at the same time?

Back to Nerja, where we shopped for groceries and supplies to replace those we have used. Carol was not happy with one of the seafood choices Duane suggested for dinner.

3 comments:

  1. You had me wondering about oranges and blossoms, too. I Googled it and this is a brief explanation.

    "There are four blossom stages of the orange tree and orange tree flowers that survive through all four blossom stages, produce fruit that develops and matures in from five to 18 months, depending on the variety and where the trees are grown. Unlike many other types of fruit, oranges can be left on the tree without becoming overripe; the previous year's oranges may still be on trees when new orange blossoms emerge."

    Is your seafood 'choice' eels, Duane?

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  2. Thanks so much, Teresa, for the information about the oranges. It's extremely interesting and something we Okanagan fruit growers know nothing about.

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